One
day I decided to go to the ocean.
To anybody else, I suppose, that
might not seem like a big deal. But I never had a look at the sea in
my 84 years, and I guessed it was about time I did.
Truth be told, I wasn’t as keen on
taking a trip as I was on making a plan. I needed something to look
ahead to, something to keep my mind from wandering into the long
ago. Old age wears down your body, sure. But somewhere in your mind
the line that separates the yesterdays from today weakens too,
shifting around like it never did before. Start wondering about
which bowl to put your breakfast cereal in, the next thing you know
you’re standing there for five full minutes recalling the fight you
had in high school with Gary Pendelton, who you punched in the nose
then afterward offered him your handkerchief to stop the bleeding.
It never used to be like this, my
mind drifting into the past. Laugh all you want, I’ll still tell you
it’s true – I’ve spent whole years without remembering. Oh, I don’t
mean remembering remembering, like where you put your car keys or
how much bacon cost when you last bought it. I mean thinking back to
the times you tried to bury for good. I mean recalling the points of
your life that you wished you’d never lived, dangerous parts that
still have the power to hurt.
I found ways to avoid the past. I’d
take on more jobs than I could handle, then tell myself I’d never
broken my word about an engine I’d fix or a flat tire I’d repair,
and that if I didn’t finish someone would be disappointed. Every
time I’d catch myself following a memory down a winding road I’d
just set off on another order, or start talking to someone even if I
had nothing to say. If I was alone I’d turn on the television or
find some corner of the house that needed cleaning. I’d work into
the night, taking my time, then collapse into bed, hoping I wouldn’t
dream.
But in these last couple of years my
memories have been coming around too often, and sometimes it takes
more effort than I can muster to keep them at bay. Some things you
can’t push away. You can only push them around for a while. Last
week I found myself saying a string of harsh words out loud for no
reason other than to stop my mind from digging any further into
unbearable places. After that happened, I made the plan to go to the
ocean, hoping such a crazy idea would occupy me, would give me a bit
of peace.
Still, just because you want the past
to leave you alone doesn’t mean it will. Sometimes it gets set on
being remembered, and all your plans to stop it are as foolish as a
one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest.
But I had to try.

When I told the guys at the garage I
was taking a trip outside of Whitney, Kansas, you could have heard a
mouse fart. Half a minute later Bert, who I hired 14 years ago and
has laughed as many times as a bald man gets his hair cut, let out a
haw-snort so loud that Louis, who was replacing an oil pan gasket on
a panel van, bumped his head on the frame, surprised. Louis came
over a minute later and set to laughing too, then patted me on the
shoulder and looked into my eyes, worried when he saw I wasn’t
kidding. Then he asked if I’d been to a doctor of late.
You see, I’d only been out of town
three times in my life.
The farthest was Chambers Army Base,
not 35 miles away, when I was drafted. They were going to ship me
off until the X-rays said my bum knee wasn’t gonna let me march more
than a mile, so the Army sent me home, where four days and four
hours later I asked Carrie Ann Douglas to marry me. Two months after
that she was my wife.
We spent our honeymoon at the Pearl
Lake Inn, ten miles outside of town – there was none of this
overseas traveling when I was a pup – and five days later we were in
our house on Gideon Lane. I remember Carrie Ann said…
See, there I go. Memories again.
Can’t keep ‘em away no more.
Anyway, last week I decided to see
the ocean and told the guys to take care of the shop, then like a
damn fool put some clothes in a canvas laundry bag and walked the
half mile into town.
I asked the girl behind the bus
counter what’s the best route to the ocean. She tap-tapped her
computer then said Gulf of Mexico? I said no, I want one of the big
ones and she said West Coast is Los Angeles and that’s 1,602 miles,
and Cape Quell, Virginia, on the east, is 1,254. I said sell me a
round trip going east and she acted like it was no big deal. Next
thing I know I’m holding the ticket, waiting for the bus to come.
How fast it all happened. How easy.
Bus was nice. Lots of room, only 21
of us on there at first, not including the driver, though there was
space enough for 56. Little lights above the seats that you could
turn off and on. Blue color fabric with squiggly designs on
everything. I noticed all this because once the bus started to move
I got nervous and started counting stuff, then looking around, then
paging through the magazines I brought. Anything to keep from
staring out the window. But soon I got to doing it, looking out the
window that is, and when that sign said Leaving Whitney City Limits
I got to adding up the years since I’d been out this far. I had been
58 or so, went to Charlesbrook where Eddie Palcon, guy who used to
work for me, was getting married. I came back after the reception.
Ain’t left since.
People around town probably think I
never traveled because my Carrie Ann and baby Lucy were killed in a
car crash. That’s not it. I didn’t travel because without them I
didn’t feel the need to go nowhere. I could work hard and keep my
mind off things, or I could sit around and dwell on it all, and that
didn’t seem like a tough choice to make. So I put my effort into the
repair shop and laugh all you want, I’ll still tell you it’s true –
time moved so fast that it felt like maybe two years ago I was 58.
Getting old is the same as watching a magic trick. You stand there,
looking dumb, and wonder what the hell happened.
I had ideas of leaving Whitney when I
was younger. Carrie Ann and I talked serious about moving to
Wichita, maybe over the Missouri line to Jefferson City, especially
when I knew of a guy who wanted to buy my shop. Those ideas ended
when Carrie Ann and Lucy died. I’d grown up nice in Whitney, and
after the wreck I just stayed put. Plenty of work around to keep my
hands busy and my mind occupied.
After another half hour on the bus we
passed the army base and heck if I didn’t grin a little. Eighty gosh
darn four and there’s something new for ya – I was farther from home
then I’d ever been in all my life. Soon I’d settled into the seat
and even started to like watching out the window, seeing different
things for a blink before we passed them by.
I started the trip to keep my mind
from the past, but soon that ride was doing the opposite. Sure, I
was worried about traveling, about where I’d sleep in Cape Quell and
how long to stay, all that. But those frets left after a couple
hours. Then came my memories. The further out of town I went, the
more I lost the muscle to stop my thoughts. There was a part of my
mind that sassed me, said that’s what you get for trying to run from
the past. I answered by saying I wasn’t trying to run, exactly, so
much as hoping I could step aside and let it walk me by.
But those memories kept closing in
just the same, and I said to myself if you can’t stop ‘em at least
try to manage ‘em, keep the vicious ones away. So I set to recalling
the good times, when once or twice a week Carrie Ann would drop by
the shop instead of calling, surprise me.
There I’d be, head in the job and I’d
turn and see her standing all clean and beautiful in the middle of
that greasy garage and my breath would leave me. I’d say Hey! too
loud, too happy, then try to tone it down cause I knew the other
guys would make kissy noises or say Awww and tease me some,
good-natured but still, a man can get embarrassed. Carrie Ann would
ask what I wanted for dinner, then she’d drive over to the market to
get it fresh. I’d hurry home to eat and just talk her ear off when
she wasn’t doing the same to me. You’re so henpecked you’re happy,
my father used to say and laugh. He loved Carrie Ann too, everyone
did, and I didn’t care all that much how sappy I looked when I saw
her.
The bus stopped for its evening break
at 8. I’d gotten to know the first driver, black fella by the name
of Clayton. He asked me how I liked the trip so far I said fine
Clayton just fine, but don’t you go hurrying on my account. He
laughed and asked was I traveling alone and I said yes and he said
going to visit grandkids I bet. I didn’t know what to say, either no
and make him feel bad or just smile, but by the time I was to answer
he was helping someone off so I went in the diner for a cup of tea
and a donut before getting back on the bus.
I was out of Kansas and into Missouri
for the first time in my life, the longest I’d ever been on a trip.
It felt worse than I’d imagined, all that sitting. Twenty-eight
hours didn’t sound like much when that girl at the bus station said
so. It’s just one day, I told myself. But soon I got the ants in the
pants, feeling a little stir crazy, watching the places zip by as
the night seeped in. Felt like we were rushing, and that made me
even more nervous. I don’t like to hurry.
Later, when I peeked at my watch and
saw it was past one I wondered if I might be up for most of the
night like I sometimes was at home, humming nameless little tunes
and staring at nothing while my head thought its thoughts. The bus
had taken more people, about three-quarters filled, and when I
looked around I saw them all asleep, faces lighting up as headlights
streamed past, then going dark again. We rode on.
Sometime after two I felt my head
fall down a couple times, and when I leaned back to get more
comfortable I said to no one in particular, not even to myself, no
dreams please. I’m happy to sleep but I just don’t want to dream.

The bus stopped at seven a.m. in
Kentucky and I woke with a full bladder and a dry mouth. I used the
bathroom and had another cup of tea, then fell to dozing not five
minutes after I sat back down. Faded in and out for an hour until I
felt someone next to me moving around.
She said sorry if I woke you and I
said it’s no problem I was just resting my eyes. We got to talkin
and she went on about a sister lived in Dixon, next to last stop, 50
miles outside of Cape Quell. Dixon is a wonderful place, she said,
and started to tell me about it. A half hour later she stopped, dead
away, and looked at me and apologized, said there she was flappin
her gums and would I forgive her. I said I didn’t mind and it was
true, I didn’t. Every so often I’d see the signs: Cape Quell 274
miles. Then 239 miles and so forth and I got that rushing feeling
again, making me more antsy by the mile. I didn’t mind listening to
her at all. It kept my eyes off the road.
Finally she said, where are you
going? I told her. Got family there? she asks, and I said Nope.
Friends? I told her nope again. Then I said I want to see the ocean
cause I ain’t never and she hooted out loud, said oh you’re gonna
love it! You could see how happy she was for me. She started going
on about her times at beaches and soon she catches herself again
then says only way for her to stop gabbing is to get me talking. So
she asks was I married. I told her I had been and she said didn’t
your wife ever get you to the seashore and I said we were only
married a year and a half before she died.
One thing about that woman, Helen was
her name. Helen held her emotions in her eyes and when she said she
was sorry I tell you she really was, not like when people say
something just to say it. And that touched me deeply. She asked had
Carrie Ann been sick and I said no. I ain’t talked about it in
decades. Everyone in Whitney knew so I didn’t ever need to say
anything, but Helen didn’t so I explained quiet that Carrie Ann died
when Teddy Thomson’s Dodge slammed into her car just 10 minutes
after she’d stopped by to see me, and that Teddy was pulled out with
two busted legs but that wreck took away Carrie Ann and our
8-month-old daughter Lucy.
When I looked up from my lap I saw
tears rolling down Helen’s cheeks and before I could take out my
handkerchief she already had a clump of tissues from her pocket and
was dabbing her eyes. I apologized and said I didn’t mean to be
telling her sad stories but she patted my hand and said again she
was so sorry for my loss, like it happened last week instead of 60
years ago.
Soon we fell to talking about little
things and before I knew it her stop arrived and we said goodbye.
She was a nice woman. She told me I would love the ocean.
We had talked for near three hours,
just shy of 200 miles, and when the bus started moving again I saw
the sign that said Cape Quell 41 miles. Not long after that the
signs started to say Beach Areas Ahead so I stopped looking out the
window for good. If I was gonna see the ocean I was gonna see it
once and for all up close, not a little piece here and there or
through the windshield of a bus. I moved over to the seat where
Helen had been and closed my eyes and waited, and after a minute I
couldn’t help it, I started thinking of Carrie Ann and Lucy.
I imagined the three of us going to
the beach together, how it could have been. I don’t like any thought
that starts how it could have been, because just by saying it could
have been means it ain’t never been and won’t never be neither. But
I pictured it in my mind’s eye just the same, the way I usually
remember her, on that day. She in that yellow flower dress and me
watching her walk into the shop, couldn’t touch her because my hands
were black with grease from the truck I was working on. I whispered
to her with a little smile that when I got my hands clean I was
gonna put them all over her and she smiled and said your mind will
still be dirty and we both laughed embarrassed some but still young
and dumb and I said I’d get back to my job right quick and she left.
As those thoughts were going through
my head the people around me were getting up. I didn’t know the bus
had stopped for good and I musta looked like a horse’s ass but I
said to the man across the aisle are we here? He said yessir we are
at the end of the line.
I still didn’t want to look out the
window. I didn’t know if maybe we were across the street from the
sea so when I got to the driver I said how far’s the ocean? He said
two or three miles and I said should I walk? He said you can but
it’s getting late. I said is there another way? He said there’s a
cab right there if you want to take it.
I stepped off the bus and stopped so
fast that the guy behind me bumped into my back and almost knocked
me over. I moved aside and stood in that parking lot wondering why
everyone else wasn’t saying nothing about it. But they were going on
their way while I didn’t move. I just breathed in the air. The
smell, the breeze, it was like I was walking in on another world. I
never did breathe nothing but Kansas air for 84 years and I felt
like I was drinking that air more than inhaling it. Reminded me of
peat and shale mixed with rainwater, but it was more the sense of it
than the smell. Laugh all you want, I’ll still tell you it’s true –
I could feel that air go down my throat like it was something you
could hold in your hands and taste with your tongue.
After a minute of standing there
smelling the air like a damn fool, I walked over to this fella,
musta been Indian, the kind from India. He opened the car door for
me, an old station wagon painted red with white letters on the side,
and I got in. He said where to? I said how much to take me to the
beach? He said which beach? I said nearest one. He said, just to any
beach? I said yes sir, where I can see the ocean.
He put the car in reverse and I asked
him to stop and said are we gonna see the ocean on the way? He said
what? I repeated that. He said sir, this whole town is a beach and
that’s when he started sounding huffy so I said shut off the engine
please and he did and I guess he expected me to get out but I
didn’t. A good lesson I learned a long time ago is that when things
start getting prickly and a man’s temper’s about to rise you just
stop cold and explain it all from the beginning. So I said to that
Indian man, mister, I ain’t never seen the ocean in my whole life.
Never once. And I don’t want to just come upon it. I want to stand
there in front of it, real close, then open my eyes and see the
ocean all for the first time. I need to be ready.
I went quiet and that Indian man’s
voice got so surprised he nearly yelled out in that funny voice of
his you have never seen the ocean in your life sir? And I said no,
I’m from Whitney, Kansas, we don’t have the ocean out there. He said
you just got off the bus from Kansas? I said this time yesterday we
passed the Missouri state line, first time in my life, and he said
my god man that is amazing and I said yes I guess it is. He said
I’ll take you to Corson’s beach and I said how much will that cost
and he said sir, if this is your first time you do not worry about
the cost. I will take you there. And I said I can pay but he was
starting the engine and didn’t hear.
He turned his head back when he was
reversing and there was a big smile on his face that made me smile a
little too. He said we’ll take Mitchell Road and then he started to
explain the route and said by going that way you won’t see the ocean
until we’re right there and I said that’d be fine.
That Indian guy was full of talk,
said he never met anyone who’d hadn’t seen the ocean. I wanted to be
nice and chew the fat with him but I was getting too edgy. That wet
air was all around me, making me feel sort of like I do after I take
a second glass of Wild Turkey. And even though he said he’d take a
route where I wouldn’t see the water I kept my head down just the
same, staring at my shoes.
I answered all his yay and nay
questions until he said you have no family who has ever traveled to
the ocean from Kansas? And I said that my wife Carrie Ann and my
only daughter Lucy would have liked to see it but they were both
killed years back. Died in a car wreck when Teddy Thomson lost his
brakes and crashed into their car. Then I stopped because my
thoughts were getting away from me and I knew I’d made that Indian
guy uncomfortable with my mind drifting from his question to my
Carrie Ann and little Lucy and Teddy Thomson so I quit rambling and
said no, my family never came to the ocean and left it at that.
Wasn’t more than five minutes later
when he said close your eyes, which he didn’t need to say because I
was looking at the floor anyway and then the car came to a stop and
he cut the engine. He used the automatic to pull down all the
windows and we just sat there hearing that slap-rumble of the waves
and he said we are here sir and I was still looking down, feeling
that breeze coming through the windows. I said how far away is the
ocean? He said we were at the end of an off-road and in front of us
was a path through the dunes and 50 yards ahead of that was the sea.
I said how much I owe you? He said,
as they say, this one is on me and he laughed and said he’d never
said that to anyone before. And I chuckled to be nice but my head
was filled with things that just kept pouring and pouring out. He
was asking me where I was staying that night and I didn’t even know
what I was doing but it felt like that ocean was pulling me so I
opened the door and got out, looking down, first time I’d seen the
ground made of sand. He called out go straight ahead on the path
between the dunes you will go right to the water and I didn’t say
nothing, I just started to move.
I walked with my head down. That
loose sand got tougher to step through the further I went. Out of
the corner of my eye I could see a little hill, a dune I guess you
call it, then it flattened and I kept walking, watching just a few
feet ahead of me. There were one or two times I got dizzy so I
stopped for a bit then started. The sound of those waves was getting
louder.
I must have been 30 yards away when I
felt a spray on my face. Ocean water. The first that’s ever touched
my skin. Touched my skin gentle like a child would.
When I thought that, everything
inside me just broke. Every step, I started to cry some more. Soon I
was sobbing like a little baby. I even said that to myself, like a
little baby, like my little Lucy and even like your mother oh god
you were both mine and I let you go, yes I did.
The more I remembered, the more I
broke, the more I cried. I saw you Lucy and your mother in the shop
that day and I thought my heart would burst wide open, I loved you
so much. I was young and dumb, damn boy of 24, but I was happy then
so happy and I wanted to get home to you both, and Carrie Ann was
leaving and I said see you real soon and I hurried back to the
pickup truck I was working on. Teddy Thomson was waiting there and I
rushed through his brake job and when I put the tires back on he
said done already? And I said yeah I fixed it right quick for you
Teddy. But I did it right quick for me, so I could get home to hold
you Carrie Ann and see you Lucy I swear I loved you that’s why I
rushed because of my love.
All of that was coming out of me and
I was sobbing so hard as I staggered down that beach looking only at
my feet and my throat hurt me so bad with all the crying. I was just
repeating your name Lucy and your name Carrie Ann and telling you
I’m so sorry I am so sorry when the water came up over my shoes in a
big rush and I stopped because I knew I couldn’t go no further.
I breathed deep and stood there as
the water came and went up over my shoes. I closed my eyes as hard
as I’ve ever done and felt those thick wet tears squeeze out of my
eyes and run down my face.
I was looking down then. I blinked
until my eyes were as clear as they would get. Pressed all the tears
out until they fell into the water. Then I closed my eyes and raised
my head so I was facing the ocean.
Then I opened my eyes.
And all at once I saw it.
Oh God, I saw it.